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The Craft

Tea Making Process

Between a dew-covered leaf on the mountain and the taste in your cup lie a dozen or so steps. This page takes them apart one by one — including the trade-offs we make along the way.

The Difference Is Only in the Middle

Rather than five separate processes, this is one road that forks in the middle. Understand the divergence and you understand Taiwanese tea.

Shared Opening — Day One at the Factory

All five teas are identical to this point: picked, withered, tossed. Nothing has diverged yet.

The Divergence — Where the Five Teas Split

Every difference comes from these three slots. What matters is where fixation sits: first makes an oolong, absent makes a black tea, last makes a red oolong.

Shared Finish — Shaping and Refining

The divergence ends and all five teas return to the same equipment: first drying, ball rolling, drying and sorting, roasting, packing. Even the black tea goes through this, which is why it too is ball-rolled.

Switching teas only changes the middle section.

Our own estateAlishan MeishanPartially Oxidised, Ball-RolledOxidation Light

Shared Opening — Day One at the Factory

All five teas are identical to this point: picked, withered, tossed. Nothing has diverged yet.

STEP01

Plucking

We head up at first light and hand-pick the leaves while they still carry their dew. Maturity sets the backbone of the batch: too tender and the liquor comes on strong but turns bitter, and it is difficult to process; too mature and it turns coarse and thin. One bud with three to four leaves is where we draw the line, and every shoot is judged by the picker, one at a time.

How we judge it: by how far the bud has opened, not by the date on the calendar. Even a single plot gets picked in stages.
STEP02

Sun Withering

The leaves are spread outdoors on clean cloth to release moisture. The cell structure softens, and the first aromatics are drawn out right here, in the sun. This step follows the weather, not the clock: strong sun means a thicker spread; an overcast day means spreading thinner, or simply taking longer.

Duration: 20 minutes to a little over an hour, adjusted according to sunlight and temperature. How we judge it: when the leaf surface loses its sheen and feels supple rather than brittle, it comes indoors.
STEP03

Indoor Withering

The leaves move indoors, onto well-ventilated withering racks. In a temperature- and humidity-controlled room the moisture keeps working its way out, and the maker turns the leaves at intervals so every one of them loses it evenly. Less happens here than anywhere else in the process, and yet this is where the foundation of the aroma is built. It cannot be rushed.

Duration: 8–12 hours, temperature maintained at 18–26°C. How we judge it: when the raw green note fades into a clean fragrance and the leaf bends without snapping.
STEP04

Tossing

The decisive step in oolong. The maker tumbles the leaves so their edges bruise against one another, and oxidation starts at those breaks — the enzymes wake up, and the floral and fruity notes that belong to this tea begin to form. Toss lightly and the oxidation stays light; toss hard and it runs deep. Whether an oolong ends up delicate or full-bodied is settled right here.

Frequency: once every 1.5–2.5 hours, repeated 2–4 times. How we judge it: by how much of the leaf edge has turned red and how the aroma is shifting; every round is reassessed before the next.

The Divergence — Where the Five Teas Split

Every difference comes from these three slots. What matters is where fixation sits: first makes an oolong, absent makes a black tea, last makes a red oolong.

STEP05

Fixation

Once oxidation has reached the point we want, the leaves go into a drum fixation machine, tumbling continuously inside a hot rotating cylinder. The enzymes are deactivated and oxidation stops on the spot; the grassy note is driven off, a toasted one takes its place, and the aroma is fixed where it stands. This is the brake pedal of tea making — whatever flavour this batch has reached is locked in at this moment, and there is no going back.

Equipment: drum fixation machine. Temperature: 260–300°C, duration: approximately 5–8 minutes. How we judge it: when the grassy note turns toasted and a handful of leaves feels soft without sticking, it comes off the machine.
STEP06

Rolling

Straight off the machine and still warm, the leaves are wrapped in cloth and rolled — tightening into balls or strands while the juices are worked onto the leaf surface. That coating is the point: in the pot the leaves open readily, and the flavour comes out whole.

Rolled continuously for 3–5 minutes. How we judge it: when the leaves have formed strands and feel tacky in the hand without weeping.

Oxidation

This tea skips this step

Fixation has already stopped oxidation, so there is no separate oxidation stage — this is exactly where oolong and black tea part ways.

Shared Finish — Shaping and Refining

The divergence ends and all five teas return to the same equipment: first drying, ball rolling, drying and sorting, roasting, packing. Even the black tea goes through this, which is why it too is ball-rolled.

STEP07

First Drying

A type-A dryer brings the moisture down and holds the tea steady so it stops changing. After first drying the leaf is still loose — it takes the rolling that follows to become a ball.

Equipment: type-A dryer. How we judge it: the leaf no longer sticks to the hand but still keeps its give; it must not be dried brittle.
STEP08

Cloth Ball Rolling

The tea is wrapped in cloth, drawn into a ball, tightened in a press, then opened and broken up — and then it starts again. Wrap, roll, break, repeat, several passes over, until the leaves knot into a semi-ball. Those tight little spheres you see in the bag are ground out one pass at a time.

Equipment: press and cloth ball rolling. How we judge it: by tightness and shape, repeating until it holds.
STEP09

Drying & Stem Sorting

Once the shape is set the tea is dried down to a keeping moisture level, and sorting happens at the same time: long stems are pulled out by a coarse sorter, and a blower lifts away debris and substandard leaf. Drying and sorting are one operation, not two.

Equipment: coarse sorter for long stems, blower for debris and substandard leaf. How we judge it: the leaf snaps cleanly instead of bending back, and stem separates freely.
STEP10

Roasting

Optional

High mountain oolong is made both roasted and unroasted. Everything listed online is lightly roasted — for the added sweetness, body and consistency. The unroasted version keeps its freshness and floral lift, but it depends on how a given batch turns out and the yield is unpredictable, so it is only offered in the shop or on request, never listed online.

Temperature: 70–120°C, duration: 4–16 hours depending on style. How we judge it: whether to roast at all depends on the flavour this batch is carrying; everything sold online is lightly roasted, with unroasted available on request.
STEP11

Packaging

As soon as the flavour has landed the tea is packed — nothing is reworked after this. Vacuum-sealed foil shuts out light and air, holding the batch at its best moment until you open it.

Every batch is labelled with the tea name, origin and other details.

Why It Is Done This Way

There are more variables at altitude, so oolong depends more on craft — get the technique right and the quality holds steady. Our processing facility is not beside the tea garden but in a spot with plenty of sun, which makes sun withering straightforward. As for flavour, the weather shifts it a little from year to year: close, but genuinely not identical.

Why Roasting Happens at Home

Primary processing at the factory, refining back home on a cabinet roaster — this is how the division between primary and refined processing actually works in Taiwan. Roasting is a trade: you gain sweetness, body and consistency, and if you push too far you lose the floral top notes and the freshness. Admitting that cost is more honest than calling it 'carefully roasted'.

Ali Shan High Mountain Oolong

You have seen how it is made. Now taste it.

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All Five Teas, Side by Side

Every difference in one table. Scroll sideways to see all columns.

All Five Teas, Side by Side
All Five Teas, Side by SideHigh Mountain OolongJin XuanFour SeasonsHoney Black TeaRed Oolong
Process familyPartially Oxidised, Ball-RolledPartially Oxidised, Ball-RolledPartially Oxidised, Ball-RolledFully Oxidised, Ball-RolledHeavily Oxidised, Ball-Rolled
OxidationLightLightLightFullHeavy
Tossing✓✓✓✓
Position of fixationFirstFirstFirstNoneLast
Separate oxidation stageNoNoNoYesYes
ShapeBall-rolledBall-rolledBall-rolledBall-rolledBall-rolled
RoastLight (online listings)LightNone (unroasted)LightHeavy
Origin / elevationAlishan Meishan 1,200mAlishan Meishan 800mSongboling, Nantou 300mAlishan Meishan 1,200mLuye, Taitung 350m
SourceOur own estateOur own estatePartner growerOur own estatePartner grower
FlavourOrchidMilkyFloralHoneyFruit & honey

Every tea is made where that tea belongs.

You have seen how it is made. Now taste it.

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